Before I knew it, the start of winter was upon us. Although the weather has been rather unusual in recent years—and autumn and winter still feel a bit absent at the moment—as a food blogger who knows a thing or two about nourishing oneself, how could that possibly dampen my desire to head out and fortify myself with some snake soup? At the end of the day, I’m just a greedy little foodie…
There are actually quite a few restaurants and snake speciality shops in Hong Kong that sell ‘Grand Historian’s Five-Snake Soup’, but those in the know will tell you that ‘Guo Jin Xuan’ is the obvious choice. And besides the ‘Grand Historian’s Five-Snake Soup’, at this time of year, Master Chef Chau Kin-yan of ‘Guo Jin Xuan’ introduces a range of special autumn and winter seasonal dishes, so it’s time to round up the friends and go for a feast! Feast! Feast!
‘Baked Avocado with Fresh Crab Meat’
Avocado is one of my favourite fruits, and I’m particularly fond of dishes that feature it. This starter is generously filled with ingredients and thoughtfully put together. First, the crab meat is removed from the shell and stuffed into the avocado, then topped with egg yolk and cheese before being baked until golden brown. The sweet, fresh flavour of the crab meat pairs exceptionally well with the creamy, rich yet slightly refreshing qualities of the avocado. Finally, a dash of specially prepared aged vinegar enhances the umami flavour, leaving me with a truly unforgettable taste.
*The Grand Historian’s Five-Snake Soup*
‘Guojin Xuan’ is undoubtedly the most authentic in the whole city. As is well known, this famous dish was invented by Jiang Taishi, a man of great culinary discernment from the late Qing dynasty, and the chef in charge of ‘Taishi’s Five-Snake Soup’ at ‘Guojin Xuan’ is none other than Master Li Yulin, a descendant of the chef who once served in his household. Whether in terms of ingredients, knife skills, seasoning or the simmering process, Master Li follows the Jiang family’s exclusive secret recipe to the letter; the broth is a blend of snake soup and superior stock. The snake broth is made using five types of snakes in full: the golden-footed snake, the tree-climbing snake, the rice-shovel-headed snake, the three-strand snake and the white-flowered snake, along with bones, ginger, dried tangerine peel, red dates and bamboo shoots, and is simmered for five hours. The superior broth is prepared using Jinhua ham, lean pork, and free-range chicken, also simmered for five hours. The two broths are then combined and brought to the boil. The snake meat is shredded into fine strips and mixed with fish maw to make the soup thicker and more nourishing. Finally, it is served with crispy fermented bean curd, chrysanthemum flowers and lemon leaves, which not only eliminate any gamey taste but also enhance the flavour. The taste is truly indescribable; just one bite and you’ll realise the care the chef has put into it. At $1280 (serves four), it’s absolutely brilliant value for money.
‘Duck in Dried Tangerine Peel Soy Sauce’
The autumn and winter seasons bring dry weather, and duck is said to nourish the internal organs. Moreover, duck meat is particularly succulent and flavourful at this time of year. Dried tangerine peel not only aids digestion and soothes coughs, but its rich, fruity aroma also cuts through the richness of the duck meat; the two are truly a match made in heaven in the culinary world. This ‘Dried Tangerine Peel Soy Sauce Duck’ is braised with premium authentic Guangdong dried tangerine peel and a secret soy sauce blend until the sauce has reduced. The duck meat is incredibly tender and richly flavoured, whilst the subtle fragrance of the dried tangerine peel elevates the dish to a whole new level. As a middle-aged gentleman in need of a bit of nourishment, I am thoroughly satisfied.
*In Search of Red in the Snow*
The name of this dish is quite interesting, as ‘hong chen’ means ‘crab’ in Taiwanese. At first, I assumed it was just a run-of-the-mill dish of crab roe with rice vermicelli, but as I ate, I found the texture of the vermicelli to be exceptionally smooth and delicious. Upon taking a closer look at the dish description on the menu, I realised it was actually . The ‘hong’ (red) refers to the crab roe, which is stir-fried using the roe and meat extracted from plump, in-season hairy crabs, resulting in a sweet, fragrant and savoury dish.
Stir-fried Glutinous Rice with Cured Meats
I don’t know when it started, but snake soup and glutinous rice with cured meats have become such a classic pairing—how could I possibly separate them? What’s more, ‘Guo Jin Xuan’s’ stir-fried glutinous rice has always been excellent, thanks to the chef’s meticulous control over every step—from soaking and draining the rice to the precise heat and timing during the stir-frying. The soft, chewy glutinous rice is stir-fried until dry and not at all greasy, and there’s a generous helping of cured meats. Every grain of rice exudes the savoury aroma of the cured meats, making me keep going back for more.
The splendid meal concluded with a selection of post-dinner sweets, including longan syrup, osmanthus cake and fried dough balls.
Dishes that involve such a complex preparation process are inevitably available in limited quantities and prove extremely popular, so if you’d like to try the authentic ‘Grand Historian’s Five-Snake Soup’, do remember to book in advance.
Address: Shops 3101–3107, 3/F, International Finance Centre, 1 Harbour View Street, Central
Transport: MTR Hong Kong Station, Exit E2; approximately a 5-minute walk
Telephone number: 852 23933933
Opening hours: Monday to Friday 11:30 – 15:00, 18:00 – 22:30; Saturday to Sunday and public holidays 11:00 – 15:00, 18:00 – 22:30
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