Guangzhou Cuisine. China] Haiyan House - White Swan Guest House State Banquet Grade Chicken, Flying Fish with Scallion and Oil

It's the fifth stop on this delicious Easter holiday, and the last meal of the trip. After seeing all the new schools and landmarks in Guangzhou, this time I'm taking Mum back to the purest of Canton. This time, the destination was Haiyan House, a restaurant on Binjiang East Road with two former chefs from the White Swan Hotel.

For Guangzhou people, the three words "White Swan" symbolise a peak era of Cantonese cuisine, and for all we know, "White Swan" was the only national-level hotel that entertained guests when I was young. "Helmed by the former senior chef of a five-star hotel, Haiyan House is not about fancy presentations, but about the old flavours that have long been missing.

Haiyan Yipin Chicken
As soon as this dish was served, the aroma of chicken fat and the sweetness of soy sauce came to my nose. Frankly speaking, I personally don't like Mainland chickens, and I really don't like to hear that the texture of their chicken is called crispy. In my opinion, the truth is that chefs often cook the chicken too "smoky" in order to achieve the desired degree of doneness, and it is a challenge to the limits of one's teeth, making one's teeth soft.

But this signature chicken dish, which is the title of the restaurant, does show the chef's true ability. The skin of the chicken is so yellow and transparent that it tastes crispy and has no excess fat at all. The best part is that the heat is controlled so well that every bite is filled with the original chicken flavour, no blood at all, with a slight crunchy resistance, but still maintains the same level of tenderness, with a slim meat texture and rich chicken flavour. The meat is delicate and full of chicken flavour. With the special ginger and spring onion garnish, the sweetness melts away in the mouth, demonstrating Guangzhou people's extreme obsession with chicken, and this chicken dish is a true interpretation of the meaning of "smooth skin and smooth meat". This is the Hong Kong standard for "boiled chicken": the meat should be tender and the texture should be fluffy, not rubber-band tough. This chicken is indeed the signature dish of Hoi An House.

Flying Fish with Scallion Oil
A visually stunning dish, the fish is deep-fried to the point of flying, like a work of art. The skin was crispy enough to be eaten off the bone, but the fish inside remained tender and fresh, and the special spring onion oil added freshness to the fish, enhancing its original flavour in no time. Unfortunately, there were too many bones in the fish, which made it difficult to eat, so I stopped after two bites.

Golden Roasted Goose & Barbecued Pork with Honey Sauce
This pairing is synonymous with "evil". Roasted goose has a crispy skin with a charming charcoal aroma, and the oil under the skin is rich but not greasy; the barbecued pork is made from the finest plum-head meat, with a crystal clear honey sauce, the edges of which are burnt until slightly charred, and then melted in the mouth, with a perfect blend of grease and honey flavour on the tip of the tongue, which is the backbone of the old-school Cantonese style of barbecued food. This is the essence of old-school Cantonese style siu mei. However, Hong Kong people have always been good at making siu mei, and the Mainland has yet to find the craftsmanship of siu mei with a touch of subtlety in its roughness.

The other dishes were not hazing.Shredded Fish Maw SoupThe soup is rich and clear with a smooth mouthfeel;Oyster KebabThe oysters are sweet and plump, while the pan-fried oysters are crispy;Sweet and Sour PorkThe sweetness and sourness of the dish are precisely defined, making it perfect for the elderly. The surprise comes from the simple side dishes.Stir Fried Cauliflower with Goose JuiceThe meat extracts are soaked up and the flavour is extremely intense, finished with a refreshingBraised Cabbage Hearts in Salt WaterThe finish balances out the satisfaction of the whole meal.

Stir-fried Ox River
As the soul of a Cantonese meal, the chef wanted to show his "wok spirit" in cooking. The river noodles were well defined, and the colour of the noodles is clear from the photos. What's great is that there was no excess oil on the bottom of the plate, and the beef was tender, so the old restaurant has its own sense of face, and it always wants to show the younger generation that it's got some "power".

• Booking Raiders: Calling at least three days in advance is recommended, especially if you want to be sure of getting one of the more elaborate signature dishes such as the 'One Piece Chicken'.
• Location: Located close to the Old Town area, the restaurant is well worth the trip for those seeking authentic Cantonese flavours.

Haiyan House (Binjiang East Main Store)
Address: 1040 Binjiang East Road, Haizhu District, Guangzhou, China
Business Hours: 11:00-14:30, 17:00-21:30
Jonathan Tips: Signature dishes are limited in supply, so it's best to reserve them at the time of booking to avoid arriving in the corner.