A few days ago, I had the misfortune of eating at a restaurant serving substandard food, which left me absolutely fuming. So, as I was working near Tsim Sha Tsui on Wednesday, I decided to treat myself to a decent lunch to lift my spirits. I ended up at ‘Katsuniyado An’ in iSQUARE, a Japanese restaurant—a rarity these days—that specialises in ingredients from a single region. The restaurant uses seasonal ingredients from Kumamoto Prefecture, all strictly selected by their chef and delivered directly to the restaurant. Even the water used to brew the tea and water served to guests, as well as the water used to prepare the soy sauce, is made using ‘Shirakawa Water’ from Aso in Kumamoto! I made a special trip here this time specifically to sample authentic cuisine from Kumamoto Prefecture.
‘The Chef’s Selection: Twelve Exquisite Sushi Menus’
I have quite a hearty appetite, so as soon as I arrived, I ordered the chef’s recommended ‘Premium 12-Piece Sushi Set’. At $398 for lunch, the price is fairly standard; the quality is solid and consistent, and most importantly, the ingredients are very fresh, all sourced from wild-caught fish in Amakusa City.
The set menu includes a starter, steamed egg custard, dessert and miso soup; for an extra 20 yuan, you can also add a glass of Kumamoto’s special sweet mandarin soda, which is refreshingly sweet and quite nice. I then ordered several dishes that I consider must-try local specialities from Kumamoto Prefecture.
‘Amakusa Daio White Broth Hot Pot’
First up is the ‘Amakusa Daio White Broth Hot Pot’ featuring Kumamoto free-range chicken. The ‘Amakusa Daio’ is the largest breed of free-range chicken in Japan. It is reared under the country’s most stringent standards and spends twice as long as ordinary free-range chickens roaming freely in the wild. Often referred to as the ‘dream free-range chicken’, it was once thought to be extinct; even today, production remains limited, making it a highly prized delicacy.
First, the skin is pan-fried until golden and fragrant, then the chicken is placed in a secret white chicken stock—simmered from ‘Amakusa Daio’ free-range chickens—and cooked slowly. It is particularly important to control the heat carefully; if overcooked, the chicken’s delicious flavour will be lost, ruining the entire dish! The chicken stock is rich and full-bodied, with a unique aroma, as all the essence of the free-range chicken has been concentrated within it. The chicken meat is tender, succulent and springy, yet firm and substantial, This flavour is something you simply won’t find anywhere else. Paired with fresh, sweet vegetables from Aso Tsuji Farm and served with soft, sticky Kumamoto rice, it’s a truly satisfying meal.
‘Homemade Bamboo Tofu’
Another dish I consider a must-try is the ‘Homemade Bamboo Tofu’. It may look simple, but it has a silky-smooth texture and is full of the natural aroma of soya beans; it’s delicious even without adding soy sauce, and is a dish you’ll find yourself longing for.
‘Whole Autumn Mackerel Sashimi’
I feel as though I haven’t had quite enough saury this year, so to make the most of the last of the season, I filleted a fairly small one. which still tasted wonderfully fresh and sweet, though the fat was no longer quite as rich. Whilst it was a bit of a shame, being able to admire the chef’s deft and breathtaking knife skills was a consolation in itself.
Address: Shop 2801, 28th Floor, iSQUARE International Plaza, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Telephone number: +852 28180031 / 57034565
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 12:00 – 14:30, 18:00 – 23:00 (last order: 22:00)
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