Sham Shui Po, an old district renowned both at home and abroad for its computer shops, might not seem like a place to find great food at first glance, yet it is precisely here that we can highlight 10 must-try culinary delights for anyone visiting Hong Kong. The selection includes dim sum, stir-fries from street-side eateries, springy wonton noodles served with a bamboo pole, and traditional, nourishing desserts. There are Michelin-recommended pastries with a history spanning over 50 years, as well as old-school Hong Kong-style cafés that have been around for half a century. Let us introduce them to you one by one.
(1) ‘He Yitai Snacks’: Silky-smooth rice rolls with a long queue
At ‘He Yitai Snacks’, rice rolls are the signature snack here, Everyone who tries them says they’re unforgettable—the snack most worth trying here. I’ve also heard that He Yitai sells five or six thousand rice rolls every day—a staggering number—which made me very curious about their rice rolls. I remember eating rice rolls for breakfast every day before school when I was younger, always with plenty of peanut butter and sweet sauce—they were absolutely delicious. The shop itself is quite small, so many people opt to take their food away and eat it outside—which adds a special charm. There are long queues at all times of the day, which shows just how popular the place is and how highly it’s regarded. As the locals say, He Yitai’s rice rolls have a rich, fragrant rice aroma. Each one is incredibly soft and smooth; they don’t fall apart immediately when you bite into them, nor are they too dry. Topped with sweet sauce, peanut butter, toasted sesame seeds and a special soy sauce blended with lard, they are absolutely delicious.
Address: Ground Floor, 121 Guilin Street, Sham Shui Po
Tel: 2720 0239
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday, 06:30–20:30
Transport: Take Exit C2 at Sham Shui Po MTR Station and walk along Guilin Street for about one minute to reach the destination.
Golden Rules for Gaming
It’s cheaper to eat the takeaway rice rolls in the alleyway next door; sitting down to eat inside the restaurant costs a little more.
Food Facts
Cheung fun is made by steaming thin sheets of rice batter one by one in a steamer and rolling them up; as they resemble pig’s small intestines, they are also known as ‘pig’s intestine rolls’. Cheung fun is served without any filling, and is simply seasoned with sweet soy sauce, sweet chilli sauce, sesame paste, sesame seeds and chilli sauce. It is a common breakfast dish in traditional congee restaurants and is similar to the ‘bula chang’ dim sum sold in Hong Kong restaurants.
(2) ‘Ai Wen Sheng’: A street-food stall serving up authentic local flavours and dishes cooked with plenty of wok hei
‘Ai Wen Sheng’ is one of Hong Kong’s leading street food stalls, with a history spanning more than fifty years. Starting out as a roadside corrugated iron stall, it has now expanded to four adjoining premises, yet it remains much like an ordinary street food stall, with a somewhat untidy environment. but the open kitchen allows diners to watch the chefs’ skilful stir-frying. If you’re keen to sample authentic Hong Kong flavours, you simply mustn’t miss a meal at ‘Ai Wensheng’.
‘Ai Wen Sheng’ excel at their stir-fries. I’d recommend the salt-and-pepper fresh squid with nine-belly fish, black bean and chilli clams, sizzling pork knuckle, and black pepper potato and beef cubes. They’re full of that authentic wok-fried flavour, made with fresh ingredients, and every dish is a feast for the eyes, nose and palate. The sizzling black pepper salted pork knuckle is also a must-try. Served on a sizzling hotplate, the pork knuckle retains its heat; when the black pepper sauce is poured over it at the table, a cloud of steam rises. Although the portion is generous, the flavour of the black pepper permeates the pork knuckle, making it absolutely delicious.
Address: 215 Lai Chi Kok Road, Sham Shui Po
Tel: 2393 9315
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday, 18:00–01:00
Directions: Take Exit A2 at Sham Shui Po MTR Station, walk along North River Street for about 5 minutes, turn left at the HSBC branch on Lai Chi Kok Road, then walk for about 3 minutes and you will see Ai Wensheng.
(3) ‘Kun Ji Pastries’ – with a history spanning over 50 years, a Michelin-recommended dessert shop
Near the High-Tech Computer Centre in Sham Shui Po, there is a very famous confectionery called Kwan Kee Grocery. It is said that Kwan Kee has over fifty years’ experience in making cakes, so today I bought some red bean cake, water chestnut cake, sesame cake and white sugar cake to show my support.
My favourite is the sesame cake from Kwan Kee Grocery. Their nine-layer sesame cake is a labour of love, as each layer must be steamed individually before being assembled—this ensures the cake isn’t too thick, preventing any unevenness in texture or flavour distribution. It really does take several times longer to make than usual! Despite all this care and effort, it costs just a few Hong Kong dollars a piece. It’s a little on the pricey side, but the flavour is simply unbeatable!
Next up is the white sugar cake, which is my partner’s absolute favourite. Most white sugar cakes you find elsewhere tend to have a slightly sour taste for some reason, but the ones at Kwan Kee Grocery have only the delicate fragrance of the cake itself—a must-try and one of the few of its kind in the whole of Hong Kong!
I must also mention Kun Kee’s red bean cake and pot cake; both are packed with red beans. Although the beans aren’t particularly large, they blend seamlessly into the cake, and the aroma of the beans is truly unforgettable—you simply must try one of them. Finally, don’t forget to try the soft and silky water chestnut cake, though I found it a bit too sweet for my taste.
Address: Shop 10, Ground Floor, North River Shopping Centre, 115–117 Fuk Wah Street, Sham Shui Po (at the junction with North River Street)
Transport: MTR Sham Shui Po Station, Exit B2; approximately 1 minute’s walk
Telephone number: +852 2360 0328
(4) ‘Green Forest Desserts’: Traditional Old Hong Kong-style Chinese sweet soups packed with ingredients
It’s not difficult to find a dessert shop in Sham Shui Po, but finding one that’s both affordable and tasty is quite a challenge. ‘Lülin Desserts’ is one of the better options, particularly for its Chinese-style sweet soups, such as red bean paste, sesame paste, kelp and mung bean paste, sesame paste, chestnut soup and egg-drop water chestnut soup—are all of a commendable standard. The water chestnut soup, in particular, is available all year round and is made using fresh water chestnuts; it’s bursting with chunks of water chestnut and has an exceptionally refreshing sweetness, making it well worth a try.
Then there’s my favourite, the nourishing and skin-brightening ‘egg white and fresh milk pudding’—known to Taiwanese as ‘steamed milk pudding’—which, when eaten regularly, is said to have a beautifying and skin-brightening effect. At Green Forest, the steaming and cooking times are perfectly controlled, and the proportions of the eggs are carefully calculated, resulting in a texture that is tender and smooth—it melts in the mouth whilst retaining the rich eggy aroma. Do remember to add large, fluffy sugar-coated lotus seeds; paired with the steamed milk, they make a truly perfect combination.
Address: Ground Floor, 77–79 Yuen Chau Street, Sham Shui Po
Tel: 2361 4205
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday, 15:00–01:30
Directions: Take Exit D2 at Sham Shui Po MTR Station, walk along Guilin Street for about 3 minutes, then turn left onto Yuanzhou Street to reach your destination.
(5) ‘Liu Sen Ji Noodle House’—authentic bamboo-pole noodles renowned both at home and abroad
‘Liu Sen Ji Noodle House’ still preserves the authentic traditional method of making bamboo-pole noodles, and the restaurant is always packed at all times of the day. The process of making bamboo-pole noodles is intricate: the noodle-maker sits at one end of the bamboo pole, repeatedly applying force to press the dough—which contains duck eggs—at the other end until it is thin enough to be cut into noodles.
Making Zhusheng noodles is a time-consuming process, and most noodle shops do not use this labour-intensive method. The noodles have an exceptionally crisp and springy texture, and the restaurant is always packed at any time of day, which is why I often make a special trip there to enjoy them.
When visiting Liu Sen Ji, I’d recommend their signature dish, ‘Prawn Noodles’. Topped with fresh, sweet prawns, these noodles offer a rich and satisfying texture, and when paired with the complimentary homemade pickled radish as a starter, they leave you wanting more.
Address: Ground Floor, 48 Guilin Street, Sham Shui Po
Tel: 2386 3533
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday, 12:00–22:00
Directions: Take Exit D2 at Sham Shui Po MTR Station, then walk along Guilin Street for about 3 minutes to reach Lau Sum Kee.
(6) Gonghe Tofu Factory, Sham Shui Po – Fresh tofu from a century-old, time-honoured establishment
A time-honoured establishment with a history spanning nearly a century—Gong He Bean Products Factory—has been in business in Sham Shui Po for around 60 years. It has always operated with a ‘shop-front, workshop-rear’ layout; the shop’s décor is nostalgic, featuring mosaic tiles and ceiling fans, preserving the authentic old-world charm of Hong Kong. Even before dawn, the staff are already hard at work making tofu and tofu puffs, ensuring the food is fresh and made to order.
I used to wonder about soya products: just how delicious could they really be? Since visiting Gonghe to try their tofu pudding, soya milk and pan-fried stuffed tofu, I’ve discovered that even simple tofu can easily be transformed into mouth-watering delicacies. The tofu pudding has a rich, nutty flavour, and when paired with sweet brown sugar, the flavour really comes into its own; the soya milk retains its authentic flavour without being diluted with too much water, and isn’t overly sweet – it’s rather good; the pan-fried stuffed tofu is cooked to order and made with genuine, high-quality ingredients.
Address: Ground Floor, 118 Pei Ho Street, Sham Shui Po
How to get there: Take Exit B2 at Sham Shui Po MTR Station, walk along North River Street for about one minute, and you will see Gong He Bean Products Factory on the side street.
Tel: 2386 3533
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday: 12:00–22:00
(7) ‘Wei Ji Coffee Noodles’ signature dishes: pork liver and beef noodles, and kaya toast
Every time I walk past ‘Wai Kee Coffee Noodles’, there’s always a long queue of people waiting for a table, and seeing this always puts me off. so I’ve been putting off trying their signature dishes—pork liver and beef noodle soup and kaya toast—for ages. When a table finally became available, I popped in straight away and ordered both.
The pork liver and beef noodle soup is generously portioned; the pork liver has been thoroughly cleaned, giving it a refreshingly smooth and tender texture when eaten, whilst the broth is rich with the essence of the liver—it’s absolutely delicious. The kaya toast isn’t too sweet; the simple white bread is generously spread with kaya jam, transforming it into something truly special.
Address: Ground Floor, Nos. 62 and 66 Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po; and Unit D, Ground Floor, Nos. 165–167 Pei Ho Street
How to get there: Take Exit B2 at Sham Shui Po MTR Station, walk along Pei Ho Street for about one minute, then turn left onto Fuk Wing Street to reach your destination.
Tel: 2387 6515
Opening hours: Monday–Friday: 6.30 am – 8.30 pm
Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays: 6.30 – 19.15
(8) ‘Zenghui Street Food Stall’: Old-neighbourhood charm, with tempting stir-fries
It’s easy to find flavourful street food stalls in the old neighbourhood of Sham Shui Po. Although ‘Zeng Hui Street Food Stall’ isn’t as well-known as some of the other stalls in the area, its stir-fried dishes are incredibly tempting. Outside the shop, there are tanks brimming with seafood; whether steamed, deep-fried, stir-fried or used as ingredients for hotpot, they are all incredibly flavourful. In particular, the pepper-flavoured pork tripe with clams is highly recommended: the broth soaks up all the clams’ natural flavour, and as the pork tripe is thoroughly cleaned, the soup has a wonderfully fresh taste.
Address: Ground Floor, 31–33 Shek Kip Mei Street, Sham Shui Po
Tel: +852 2778 8103
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday: 17:30–02:00
How to get there: Take Exit B1 at Sham Shui Po MTR Station, turn left, walk straight along Cheung Sha Wan Road for about 3 minutes, then turn into Shek Kip Mei Street and walk for another 2 minutes to reach your destination.
(9) Tim Ho Wan – Michelin-recommended dim sum restaurant
The quality is consistent across all Tim Ho Wan branches, as the food is prepared to the same standards, and there are just a few dishes that stand out as particularly tasty. There are three or so public parking meters outside the Sham Shui Po branch of Tim Ho Wan; even if these are full, there is plenty of parking available nearby. This is another feature that makes the Sham Shui Po branch particularly convenient.
Tim Ho Wan’s yellow sand pork liver rice rolls feature thin, soft and silky wrappers—they’re among the finest in town. The fresh prawn dumplings are packed with fresh, flavourful prawns and have thin, translucent wrappers—just the right size for a single bite! A truly delightful dim sum experience. The flaky baked char siu buns have a wonderfully thin, beautiful crust; the method is unique and the texture is superb. The top resembles that of a Hong Kong-style pineapple bun, but the texture isn’t overly crispy, nor does it have a heavy buttery aroma. The char siu filling consists of small, generous slices of genuine, high-quality meat, and you can really taste that it’s freshly prepared.
Address: Ground Floor, 9–11 Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po
MTR Prince Edward Station, Exit E, approximately a 7-minute walk
Tel: +852 2788 1226
(10) ‘New Xiangyuan Jianji’ 24-hour café; its signature dish, the egg and beef sandwich, has been on the menu for several decades
Sun Heung Yuen (Kin Kee) is one of Sham Shui Po’s famous street-level café-restaurants. With a history spanning several decades, it is one of the few café-restaurants in the Sham Shui Po district that is open 24 hours a day, and its egg and beef sandwich has become something of a local legend, serving as the restaurant’s signature dish. But why has this seemingly ordinary egg and beef sandwich become one of Xin Xiang Yuan’s must-try snacks? It turns out that their beef and egg sandwich does not use tinned corned beef, but rather fresh, hand-sliced beef, combined with satay sauce, soy sauce, sugar and other seasonings. The generous portion of ingredients elevates the flavour of the sandwich; remember to ask for the bottom to be toasted for the best taste. The beef and egg sandwich is best paired with their special milk tea red bean ice—rich in tea flavour, smooth on the palate, and with just the right amount of red beans—making for a lovely drink.
Address: Ground Floor, 38A Guilin Street, Sham Shui Po
Transport: Exit C2 at Sham Shui Po MTR Station, approximately a 2-minute walk
Tel: +852 2386 2748
Opening hours: Open 24 hours a day
Chinese (Hong Kong) 
Chinese (China) 
English 
Japanese 
Korean