"logy is the third instalment of our 'Michelin Star Trek Taipei'. Opened at the end of 2018, logy is the sister restaurant of Florilège, which was awarded two Michelin stars in Tokyo and ranked third in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. The chef, Mr Misao Tahara, who came all the way from Japan to take the lead, is also the sous-chef of Florilège, and having trained in a number of Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy, the restaurant is certainly eagerly awaited, and it is rumoured that seats were booked up in no time at all upon the opening of the restaurant. The restaurant lived up to its expectations and was awarded one Michelin star in Taipei soon after opening.
The restaurant operates in the form of French cuisine that retains the soul of Japan, while using the most seasonal ingredients from Taiwan to create Asian creations.
When I researched the name of the restaurant, I found that the ”L” is written in lower case rather than upper case, which is because the name is an English suffix, and the word "logy" becomes a new word when it is preceded by another word. The philosophy of the restaurant is to integrate chefs from different cultures, to continue to learn and create, and to collaborate with different restaurants and chefs from time to time to create new sparks.
It's nice to walk through the wooden doors and into the grey and brown dining room, which is elegant and a little bit stylish. My favourite kind of restaurant is the "dining in front of the board" style, which reduces the distance between the guests and the chef and makes the meal more enjoyable. Lunch at "logy" is priced at NTD3750 for a 10-course meal and NTD1750 for Wine Pairing with 5 glasses of wine. No menu will be printed and the dishes do not have specific names, but the chef will explain each dish in detail.
Pumpkin and Shiba Fish Soup
Starting with a clear soup of woodchuck and mushrooms, add yellow pumpkin paste and woodchuck slices on top. A nice prelude to the sweet and refreshing soup.
The Northern Sentimental Salad
The Hokkaido scallops are very sweet and fresh, and the sauce made from passion fruit adds flavour and freshness to the dish, making it a tart and appetising dish. On the side were refreshing black fungus, beautiful lily bulb seedlings and Japanese edelweiss, which contributed to the aroma of the whole dish. The most interesting part of the dish was the juicy transparent konnyaku noodles, which turned out to be made with yuzu juice.
Beef Clarification Soup Steamed in Tea Bowl
In the middle of the chawanmushi is sweet sago crab meat, and on top of that, green ice cream made from angelica and celery root. When it's time to eat, the shopkeeper will slowly pour the beef broth, made from dried squid and beef, along the edge of the bowl. The steamed egg made from old hen's egg has a particularly tangy flavour, while the broth and the sweetness of the crab meat, together with the medicinal sweetness of the ice-cream, swirls around in the mouth. It's this impressive flavour that has made it a regular feature of logy's menu.
Salt-crusted Horsehead Fish
A very delicate dish. The horse head fish was cooked using the Taiwanese concept of salt-crusted chicken, sprinkled with salt-crusted spices and fried, the meat was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, and even the scales of the fish were fried to a rare crispiness! The brown one on the side is a roasted mandarin orange, which has been roasted to enhance its flavour. Squeeze the juice onto the fish and dip it into the black garlic sauce to bring the flavour to the next level. A side dish of mildly spicy sticky peppers with a few Korean sesame leaves and kalamata adds to the flavour. The dish is complemented by Taiwan's craft beer "55th Street". The bitter taste of the beer chemically interacted with the flavour of the salt-crusted horse head fish, bringing out a rich floral aroma that lingered on the palate, and it was really delicious! Honestly, this fish was one of the best fish dishes I've ever had at a Michelin restaurant in Taipei.
Pigeons
The pigeon from Pingtung County is served with sweet and light Japanese roasted aubergine, with a bit of soft, fermented old-fashioned tofu in the middle. The dark red chunks on the outside are fried red quinoa flakes. The yellow is a sweet and sour sauce made from kaffir lime. This dish goes well with warmed Aichi sake.
"Mackerel, Clam, Radish Soup.
This dish is prepared using Italian cooking techniques. The mackerel was served with a vegetarian sazu and radish, a garlic cream, and a white broth made from beef, clams and radish. The half-cooked fish was very tender, but had a slightly fishy mackerel-like flavour that not everyone liked. I found it quite tasty, and the broth was a bit fatty, which made it more moist, but the broth was a bit off-putting by the grassy taste of the radish. It was a bit sour to be served with Chardonnay white wine.
Roasted Taiwan Pearl Chicken
The main course was a pearl chicken from Taoyuan, with a beautiful golden brown skin, small in size but well-muscled with little fat, with the flavour of wild chicken. After taking photos, the staff cut it into pieces and served it to us.
The chicken was cooked to a fine texture, especially the breast and spleen, which were very tender and flavourful. The white foamy almond sauce was not very distinctive, but the sauce made from the chicken bones was very rich. A bite of risotto, which was served with mashed sweet potato leaves and a few diced sweet potatoes, showed that the chef had done a good job in cooking it, but it would have been better if it had a bit more bite and sweet potato flavour.
The Dessert
The first dessert was fig goat's milk yoghurt ice cream. Goat's milk ice cream has a rich flavour with a hint of sourness and is smooth and tasty, but it does not have a strong flavour and may not be palatable to everyone. Eaten with sweet fig pulp and jelly made from grapes and fig leaves, it can balance out the flavour.
Next is the cheese and meringue made of Taiwanese Sakura (lychee), which has a rich and refreshingly beautiful cherry blossom flavour, and because there is no added economy, it melts in your mouth as soon as you can enjoy it.
Last but not least is a popular favourite dessert, the classic hand-kneaded wild love jade. This is a deliciously sweet and refreshing jelly made with pineapple juice from the Nine Layers Pagoda. Finish your meal with a choice of osmanthus oolong tea, coffee or vanilla tea.
Overall, ology is good at using some rare ingredients, the combination of ingredients are quite unique, the taste is good, and every dish can show the chef's excellent cooking skills. Although it may not be the restaurant that surprised me the most, the overall feeling is not bad, and the wine pairing is not that great, with no big changes in the pairings. Maybe next time, I can try the special Tea Pairing here.
The menu changes every two months, so you can try new dishes every time you visit. Online booking is available 60 days in advance, so you'll have to be on time if you want to eat.
Address：1F, No.6, Lane 109, Sec.1, Anhe Road, Da-an District, Taipei, Taiwan
Telephone: +886 2 2523-1111
Business Hours: Wednesdays 18:00~10:30 / Thursdays~Sundays 12:00~15:00, 18:00~22:30 (All day Monday and Tuesday, closed on Wednesdays for lunch)
Website. https://logy.tw/cn/reservation.html
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