[Hong Kong Cuisine] Ammo in Admiralty: Playful Spanish Tapas

What is the origin of tapas? The Chinese name is ‘Tapas’—I don’t suppose that’s how people in Hong Kong refer to it, is it? Put simply, tapas is a type of Spanish cuisine with a vast variety of dishes, typically served in small portions. As a result, recipes for tapas can be found all over the internet. It is precisely because of this distinctive character that it is so popular with Hong Kongers; it is simply perfect for enjoying during happy hour or afternoon tea.
Ammo is located at the Asia Society Hong Kong Centre; the building in which the restaurant is housed was formerly an explosives depot, hence the name ‘Ammo’. Decorated with copper pipework, Ammo has successfully created a striking and distinctly futuristic dining space. In the past, Ammo’s menu centred on Mediterranean cuisine with strong Italian influences, but the restaurant has recently decided to reposition itself, moving away from its former upmarket image to become a more approachable bar specialising in Spanish tapas.
Ammo is now helmed by Jaime Nuñez, a Spanish chef with over 15 years’ experience in Spanish cuisine who has worked at several three-Michelin-starred restaurants, and has launched a range of visually striking and playful Spanish tapas. As Ammo now specialises in tapas, the portions are naturally on the smaller side, but every dish and every detail is exquisitely crafted. Allow me to introduce a few of the tapas I sampled during a recent Happy Hour session.

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Sangria

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I’ve never been a huge fan of cocktails—I particularly dislike the sweet, ‘girly’ sort—but Ammo’s sangria is quite famous, and this isn’t the first time I’ve had it here. As well as the traditional red wine-based version, AMMO also serves a White Sangria made with white wine as its base. This White Sangria is blended with orange liqueur and peach wine, bringing out the fresh, fruity aroma; the flavour is relatively light, crisp and sweet.
But today I’m still drinking a red variety; my sangria is divided into three layers, and just looking at it, you can already sense its delicate, opulent feel. The top layer is adorned with a skewer of mixed berries, whilst the sides are sprinkled with lychee-flavoured popping candy, My first impression was that Ammo has infused this Spanish national drink, sangria, with some rather playful touches. Below that lies a smooth, velvety layer of red currant foam, whilst the middle layer consists of richly fruity red wine blended with sweet citrus liqueur infused with wine notes. Even a traditional sangria can be crafted with such rich complexity. ($120)

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Beetroot, Fresh Orange and Walnut Salad 
Beetroot salad with orange and walnuts

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Beetroot is highly nutritious and has a distinctive grassy flavour; some people don’t like it, but I absolutely love it—it’s one of my favourites. Ammo’s Beetroot, Fresh Orange and Walnut Salad presents beetroot in a truly distinctive way, using four different preparation methods—including steaming, roasting, vacuum-sealing and dehydrating—to create semi-dried, chunky and puréed textures. The highlight of this beetroot, fresh orange and walnut salad is the sweet and refreshing beetroot chunks at the base. These are topped with naturally air-dried beetroot and thin slices of golden beetroot. Golden beetroot is less well known; it tastes similar to regular beetroot but is golden in colour and rich in folate and iron, amongst other nutrients. The air-dried beetroot and golden beetroot slices have a crisp, crunchy texture; eating just one or two might leave you wanting more. The salad is served alongside crisp, sweet and nutty walnuts, giving the whole dish a variety of textures and flavours. ($98)

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Mussels Stir-fried with Parsley Oil
Sautéed Mussels with Parsley Oil and Jelly

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Plump, succulent mussels are often used in tapas dishes. Ammo’s chef simply sautés the mussels in parsley oil until fragrant, then serves them with a dollop of special chilli jelly. The first bite reveals the mussels’ natural sweetness, complemented by a tantalisingly spicy kick from the chilli, adding an extra layer of complexity to what is essentially a simple stir-fried dish—in terms of flavour, presentation and culinary concept. ($98)

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Raw oysters served with lime and coconut soup and watercress jelly
Oyster with Lime and Coconut Soup & Watercress Jelly  

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Raw oysters served plain, ready to eat, might not seem particularly in keeping with the spirit of tapas, but at Ammo, these oysters are served with a lime and coconut broth and watercress jelly—and they truly capture the essence of tapas. The chef has immersed a small portion of smooth, chilled coconut soup around crisp, sweet fresh oysters. The chilled soup already possesses a rather pronounced coconut aroma and is further seasoned with a variety of spices, such as lemongrass, galangal, lime, lemon leaves and coriander, resulting in a truly rich flavour profile. The coconut and spices bring out the umami in the oysters, harmonising perfectly with the saltiness of the sea and enhancing the flavour. Presented in ceramic oyster shells, the oysters steeped in the chilled coconut soup are a delight to the eye. ($138)

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Sicilian red prawns and Hokkaido sea urchin
Prawns and sea urchin

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It’s well known that Sicilian red prawns are sweet and tender, with a texture that’s both succulent and crisp. At Ammo, this dish is further enhanced with fresh sea urchin from Hokkaido; the sweetness of these two distinct flavours blends together so perfectly that it’s utterly irresistible even without any additional seasoning. The white element is a cream sauce, simmered with mussels, kelp, fennel and celery, whilst the sprinkling alongside is made from prawn shells that have been dried and ground into a fine powder; the entire presentation evokes the scenery of a Sicilian beach. ($188)

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Spanish omelette
Spanish Tortilla Omelette

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I’m a bit of an egg fanatic; I’m particularly fond of dishes made with eggs, such as Ammo’s Spanish tortilla omelette It’s absolutely delicious. The outside is slightly charred; when you cut into the omelette with a knife, the egg mixture immediately oozes out. This mixture is anything but ordinary – it’s made with cheese and chorizo. It’s full of the rich, nutty aroma of the cheese and the savoury, chewy flavour of the chorizo. I’d love to have a whole one all to myself. ($88)

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Finally, there are a few simpler snacks I’d like to recommend to you all. If you’re feeling peckish or fancy something to go with your drinks, I’d highly recommend giving them a try. Garlic-fried prawns ($98), deep-fried baby cuttlefish with squid ink mayonnaise ($98), Crab Tatar with Avocado, Shiitake Mushrooms and Thai Basil Jelly ($138), and Cheese and Chilli Powder-Coated Fried Chicken with Honey Mustard Sauce.

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Ammo
Tel: 2537 9888
Asia Society Hong Kong Centre, 9 Justice Road, Admiralty
www.ammo.com.hk

Opening hours, last order time
Lunch 11:30–14:30 Last Order.
Dinner 18:00–21:00 Last Order.