Whenever I mention going on holiday to Fukushima, my friends and family tend to look a bit surprised. I suppose everyone feels the same way! Ever since the 11 March earthquake in Japan, there’s been a certain degree of reluctance towards travelling to Fukushima and consuming agricultural produce from there. A quick look at the facts reveals that Fukushima Prefecture covers 13,000 square kilometres – actually much larger than we might imagine! Moreover, the areas affected by the nuclear disaster are mainly coastal regions, with the exclusion zones at least 120 kilometres away from inland residential and tourist areas. According to the latest measurements from 2018, the average radiation level in Hong Kong is between 0.08 and 0.15 rem per hour, whilst in Fukushima Prefecture – excluding the restricted zone around the 3% nuclear power plant disaster area – levels in other regions range from just 0.06 to 0.11 microsieverts.
Upon arriving in Fukushima, one soon discovers that it is a place of great natural beauty, boasting a wealth of scenic resources. It is also renowned as one of Japan’s leading fruit-growing regions, and ‘Fukushima Beef’ ranks 12th among the nation’s finest Kuroge Wagyu breeds. Currently, all agricultural produce and meat from within the prefecture is sent to the ‘Fukushima Prefectural Agricultural Complex’, built and operated by Fukushima Prefecture. Using state-of-the-art equipment and facilities, it undergoes world-class radiation testing before being released onto the market, ensuring everyone can enjoy it with peace of mind. I have witnessed first-hand the tremendous efforts made by the local government and residents to address public concerns through various means and to implement comprehensive radiation safety measures, all in an effort to restore public confidence in Fukushima. I would like to do my part by presenting and explaining the current situation in Fukushima, as well as recommending local cuisine, accommodation and must-see attractions.
Niu Feng Asahi Branch: Savour the rich flavour of Fukushima beef and Rokuzan Kogen pork on the grill
Fukushima beef ranks 12th among Japan’s 47 varieties of Kuroge Wagyu, making it a must-try. The Japan Agricultural Cooperatives (JA Zen-Noh) Fukushima Prefectural Headquarters operates two directly-run yakiniku restaurants in Fukushima, and the ‘Gyutoyo Asahi’ branch, where we had lunch today, is one of them. I previously had the opportunity to observe the radiation testing process at the ‘Fukushima Prefectural Agricultural Comprehensive Centre’ first-hand. It turns out that the nape of the neck is the part of the animal most susceptible to radiation contamination; therefore, meat that passes the radiation safety tests on this area can be consumed with complete peace of mind. Naturally, all meat and poultry sold in JA-operated shops and restaurants have passed these rigorous tests, meeting the highest standards set by the World Health Organisation, and they only source from farms that produce high-quality beef. The marbled beef is tender, has a vibrant colour and a rich flavour. We also offer ‘Rokusan Kogen Pork’, raised on a purely plant-based diet including shiso.
Address: 3-34 Asahi 2-chome, Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture
Tel: +81 24-934-4129
Opening hours: Lunch: Weekdays 11:00–14:00, Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays 11:00–14:30. Dinner: Sunday–Thursday 17:00–22:00, Friday, Saturday and the day before public holidays 17:00–23:00 (Closed on Wednesdays) ※Last orders 30 minutes before closing.
Yuzaku Chaya Fukushima: Savour traditional Fukushima home-style cooking in a small woodland setting
The teahouse is surrounded by flowers, greenery and maple trees, and the current proprietress has inherited her mother-in-law’s culinary skills, specialising in various dengaku dishes made using a secret family miso recipe. To ensure diners can enjoy the finest home-style cooking with complete peace of mind, only locally sourced ingredients that have passed radiation testing are used. The most distinctive dish is the teahouse’s speciality, the ‘Yuzu Miso-Glazed Rice Ball’. The rice ball is grilled to a crisp exterior and soft interior, with a subtle hint of yuzu. It is said to commemorate the rice balls her mother-in-law made during the hardships of the war years, a flavour her family can never forget. Other highlights include the smooth and sweet edamame purée, and a side dish that resembles ginger paste but is actually made from eggs and spring onions, with a distinctively strong spring onion flavour. The dengaku-style grilled daikon, taro dumplings and konjac are also well worth trying.
Address: 2-8 Yokozuka, Arai, Fukushima City, Fukushima Prefecture 960-2156
Tel: +81 24-593-5088
Opening hours: 11:00–20:30 (last order 19:30), closed on Wednesdays (open as usual on public holidays, with the following day closed in lieu) *Open only during the day on Tuesdays (last order 15:00) *Open until 20:00 from December to March
JA Love Farm: A direct-sales outlet selling vegetables grown with love
This is a direct-sales vegetable market operated by the Fukushima Prefectural Headquarters of the National Agricultural Cooperative Federation of Japan (JA Zen-Noh Fukushima). All fruit and vegetable produce sold at Ai-kan has passed rigorous radiation testing conducted by the ‘Fukushima Prefectural Agricultural Centre’; should any item be found to exceed the standard, the entire batch is immediately disposed of. Consequently, radiation levels strictly comply with the World Health Organisation’s international maximum limits. Furthermore, each pack of produce bears detailed information regarding its origin, specifying the farm and the farmer who grew it, allowing local residents to shop for ingredients here with complete peace of mind. ‘Safe, reliable and fresh’ is the motto of ‘JA Love Hall’. Seeing these large, sweet-looking seasonal fruits such as strawberries, apples and pears makes one want to buy some to eat. In addition to fruit and vegetables, the shop also sells traditional Japanese pickles, cakes, ready-to-eat rice, 100% juices and has a small ice-cream parlour, amongst other things.
Address: 3-35 Asahi 2-chome, Koriyama City
Tel: +81 24-991-9080
Opening hours: 9.00–18.00; closed on the first Wednesday of every month
WONDER FARM: Sweet tomatoes grown using crushed coconut shells
The tomato farm here covers a total area of 2.5 mu and began operations two years ago following the major earthquake. The cultivation method is quite unique: they crush coconut shells to use in place of soil. The advantage of this method is that the fruit grown is particularly sweet. A single tomato vine can yield around thirty-three large, round tomatoes, but as they do not all ripen at the same time, you should pick the ones with a deep red colour – the green ones can be quite sour. The picking fee is 800 yen, and there are as many as nine varieties of tomato to choose from. Staff will provide a plastic bag for you to fill up.
Address: 1 Minatomachi, Nakajima, Yotsukura-machi, Iwaki City, Fukushima Prefecture
Tel: +81 246-38-8851
Opening hours: For individuals: Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays 10:00– / 11:00– / 13:00– / 14:00– / 15:00 (Groups may book at any time)
ANPO Workshop: A Taste of ANPO Persimmons with a Century of History at the Persimmon Processing Plant
A visit to ‘ANPO Kobo Mirai’, a semi-automated processing and packaging facility for dried persimmons. ANPO persimmons (Anpo-gaki) are a speciality of Date City in Fukushima Prefecture, with a history dating back around a century. ‘ANPO Kobo Mirai’ was established two years ago to improve the quality of ANPO persimmons and enhance production and marketing techniques. It is therefore equipped with the latest processing and packaging machinery, as well as comprehensive hygiene management and radiation monitoring systems, to ensure that everyone can enjoy persimmons of the highest quality that are safe to eat. The dried persimmons are sweet and delicious, and can even be made into ice cream. Groups interested in visiting can apply via the official website.
Address: 5-1 Nishidobashi, Yanagawa-machi, Date City, Fukushima Prefecture 960-0777
Tel: +81 24-572-3233
Website: https://ja-f-mirai.or.jp/
Fukushima Nakajima Kaikan, Aizu-style pork cutlet rice bowl with sauce
This rice bowl dish consists of shredded cabbage layered over white rice, topped with a fried pork cutlet marinated in a secret Aizu sauce. On this occasion, I enjoyed this special treat at ‘Nakajima Kaikan’ (なかじま), a specialist restaurant much loved by the locals. With a single bite into the thick, crispy cutlet, the slightly sweet sauce mingled with the rich, savoury fat, instantly filling my mouth! It turns out that this long-established restaurant uses pork from pigs reared in the southern highlands of the Abukuma region in Fukushima Prefecture, which is why the meat is particularly tender and springy, and is incredibly juicy. The white rice is soft and sticky Koshihikari, and when eaten with the crisp, sweet local shredded cabbage, it isn’t at all greasy; on the contrary, it goes down a treat with the rice. The bowl was generously portioned, yet I polished it off in no time. Furthermore, all ingredients here have passed the rigorous radiation testing conducted by the ‘Fukushima Prefectural Agricultural Centre’, so you can eat with complete peace of mind.
Address: 2-39 Kamimachi, Aizu-Wakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture 965-0034
Tel: +81 242 24 5151
Opening hours: Lunch: Weekdays 11:00–14:30; Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays 11:00–15:00. Dinner: 17:00–20:00. Closed on Tuesdays (open as usual on public holidays).
Fruits Land, an orchard where you can pick and eat fresh fruit
At Fruits Land in Kita-Aizu, you can pick and taste a variety of seasonal fruits all year round. For half an hour, you can pick and eat as much as you like, with the picking fee varying depending on the type of fruit and the day. In winter, you simply must try the Japanese strawberries that so many Hong Kongers flock to! The entire orchard is filled with the scent of strawberries, and it’s clear that the owner has put a great deal of care into cultivating the fruit here. Every strawberry is large and juicy, with some even bigger than a child’s palm! I sampled two different varieties: ‘SACHINOKA (さちのか)’, which is extremely sweet with a firm texture. ‘Red Cheeks’ has a vibrant colour, just like a rosy cheek. With its sweet-and-sour flavour and a rich, cherry-like aroma, I couldn’t resist eating over ten of them.
Address: 531-4 Miyahigashi, Shimo-Arai, Kita-Aizu-machi, Aizu-Wakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture 965-0111
Tel: +81 242-23-9810 / 090-8614-2945
Opening hours: The park opens at 10:00 am. Picking times vary depending on the type of fruit; please refer to the official website for details.
Website: https://www.aizufruit-l.com/
A Tour of Suehiro Shuzo, an Aizu Brewery with a 160-Year History
For over 160 years, they have steadfastly used water and rice from Aizu, and their sake is brewed exclusively by local Aizu residents. This authentic local brew has won numerous domestic and international awards. As well as being one of Fukushima’s most renowned sake breweries, it is also a popular tourist destination; the three-storey wooden building itself is a historic sake cellar and is protected by the government. Many visitors make a special trip to take part in the brewery tours. There are four breweries here, and the tours primarily cover the history of Suehiro Shuzo, the production line, and how the traditional ‘Yamahai’ method is used to brew sake. The tour lasts approximately 30 minutes and is free of charge, but advance booking is required. There is also a shop offering tastings of various sake varieties and selling limited-edition sake from the Kaei-kura series, as well as other products made from by-products such as sake lees, including pickles and traditional Japanese sweets. Other facilities include a café serving unique house-made desserts featuring Japanese sake and coffee brewed with ‘Jiki-mizu’ (spring water), which is truly distinctive.
Address: 12-38 Nisshin-chō, Aizu-Wakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture
Tel: +81 242 27 0002
Opening hours: 09:00–17:00
Inumashiro Town, Snow Cabbage Harvesting Experience
By the time this cabbage reaches October, winter has set in locally and the land is blanketed in snow, transforming the fields into a natural icehouse. The vegetables cease to grow; unable to carry out photosynthesis, their original bitterness fades, giving way to a unique sweetness. Two months later, large, sweet snow-grown cabbages are thus perfected. To harvest them, one must first don specially made thermal gloves. In the bitter cold of sub-zero temperatures, one must carefully dig inch by inch with a spade through snow and mud two or three feet deep, before using a knife to cut the cabbage stalks to complete the harvest. After harvesting, the cabbages are sent to the ‘Fukushima Prefectural Agricultural Comprehensive Centre’—which we visited earlier—to undergo radiation testing to the highest international standards before being officially released for sale. If you’re interested, you can book a hands-on experience (staff speak only Japanese); the fee is 1,000 yen per person.
Address: Inawashiro-machi, Fukushima
Tel: +81 242-66-4090
Website: https://www.hana-masa.biz/
Ouchi-juku: 400 years of history, one of Japan’s three great thatched-roof villages
<> is counted among Japan’s three great thatched-roof villages, alongside Shirakawa-go and Kitamura in Miyama, Kyoto Prefecture. It was designated a National Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings in 1981 and has been protected ever since. These thatched-roof houses, brimming with traditional Japanese charm, now mostly house various restaurants, souvenir shops and guesthouses. You can take a leisurely stroll through the shops, each with its own unique style, and pick up some souvenirs and local specialities to take home. You can also sample authentic local cuisine; there are many shops here serving leek soba noodles, and you can try the unique experience of using a leek as chopsticks to eat the noodles. Finally, take a stroll to Takakura Shrine and the hilltop observation deck to take in the stunning views of the entire village.
Address: Ouchi Yamamoto, Go-machi, Minamiaizu District, Fukushima Prefecture
Opening hours: Opening hours vary by branch
Tsuru Castle, Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle, the twelfth of Japan’s 100 Famous Castles
Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle, also known as ‘Tsurugajo’, ranks twelfth among Japan’s 100 most famous castles. Wakamatsu Castle is the only castle in Japan with a main keep featuring reddish-brown roof tiles; its roof is adorned with shachi (mythical sea monsters) with gilded teeth, and the building is predominantly white in colour. Within the castle grounds, there are numerous exhibits and artefacts depicting wars and the deeds of successive lords. The inner garden also features a memorial stupa honouring ancient fallen warriors; whilst it may appear sombre, it offers a captivating view. In spring, over a thousand cherry trees line the moat and the castle grounds; in autumn, the area is ablaze with crimson foliage; and in winter, it is blanketed in snow. Visitors can also take part in an activity where they paint the local mascot, the ‘Red Bull’. If time permits, one can relax with a cup of matcha at ‘Rinkaku’, a tea house designated as an ‘Important Cultural Property’ by Fukushima Prefecture.
Address: 1-1 Ote-machi, Aizu-Wakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture
Tel: +81 242 27 4005
Opening hours: 08:30–17:00 (last admission at 16:30)
Bandai-Atami Onsen · HOTEL Hana-no-Yu: Savour Fukushima-style Japanese cuisine at this legendary healing spring
Hana-no-Yu is a hot spring inn centred on the theme of ‘gentleness’, with a strong emphasis on Fukushima’s traditional cuisine. Legend has it that Princess Hagi, who was suffering from an incurable illness, came to Bandai-Atami Onsen, cured her ailment by bathing in the waters, and regained her former beauty; it is a legendary healing spring. The cuisine here utilises the freshest seasonal local produce; the vegetables are grown by nearby farmers and delivered immediately after being harvested each morning, ensuring exceptional freshness.
Address: 5-8-60 Atami, Atami-machi, Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture 963-1309
Tel: +81 24-984-2222
Website: www.hotelhananoyu.jp
Kanzan no Yado Chiyotaki: an open-air hot spring with breathtaking views
Kanzan-no-Yado Chiyotaki features an open-air hot spring with breathtaking views, offering a panoramic vista of the entire Higashiyama Onsen resort area. The cuisine features exclusive, creative regional dishes from Aizu, prepared using the highest quality Koshihikari rice grown in Aizu and seasonal ingredients. At the ‘Local Sake Hall’, we have prepared a selection of around 30 varieties of renowned local Aizu sake for you to sample.
Address: 43 Yumoto Terayashiki, Higashiyama-machi, Aizu-Wakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture 965-0814
Tel: +81 242 26 0001
Website: www.kutsurogijuku.jp
Shanshui Zhuang Tutan Hot Spring Hotel: Experience world-class hot spring facilities
Located in the Tsuchiyu Onsen area near Fukushima City, the scenery is picturesque in spring and summer, whilst autumn and winter are ablaze with crimson maple leaves. Sansui-so boasts a garden surrounded by nature and delicious, locally sourced seasonal ingredients. The dinner was exceptionally lavish, with each dish exquisitely presented and made with the freshest ingredients; the freshly cooked kamameshi (rice cooked in a pot) left a lasting impression on me. A buffet option is also available.
Address: 55 Aburabata, Tsuchiyu Onsen-machi, Fukushima City, Fukushima Prefecture
Tel: +81-24-595-2141
Website: https://www.sansuiso.jp/lg_tw/
Hawaiian resorts: enjoy the pleasures of swimming and hot springs in the great outdoors
A large-scale leisure and accommodation complex located in Tokiwa, Iwaki City, Fukushima Prefecture. It features a large hot spring swimming pool, hot springs, a hotel and a golf course. With five hot spring-themed zones and a variety of room styles, it is a place where you can relax whilst soaking up an exotic atmosphere. The facilities and surroundings truly give the illusion of being on holiday in Hawaii, and that evening we enjoyed a spectacular and dynamic hula dance performance. For dinner, we savoured seasonal Japanese cuisine; there is also a buffet option available. For a late-night snack, one can visit the on-site ramen shop or izakaya. Breakfast is also very generous, with a wide variety of options.
Address: 50 Warabidaira, Tokiwa-Fujiwara-machi, Tokiwa City, Fukushima Prefecture
Tel: +81 246-43-3191
Website: https://www.hawaiians.co.jp/
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