During the period of British colonial rule in Hong Kong, the British Prince of Wales, Edward, visited the northern part of Mong Kok; the MTR station subsequently built in the area was named ‘Prince Edward’. The Prince Edward district is situated in the heart of Mong Kok. It is a bustling area teeming with people and a vibrant, never-sleeping hub of eateries. Around the two exits of the MTR station and the neighbouring streets, a wealth of restaurants and snack bars offering authentic Hong Kong specialities have sprung up. There are many long-established, old-style restaurants here, such as the Hong Kong-style Western steakhouse ‘Kam Fung Restaurant’ and the charcoal-grilled roast meat restaurant ‘Wing Hop Lung Restaurant’. If you enjoy the fare at Hong Kong-style cafés, you simply must not miss the ‘signature pineapple bun’ at Kam Wah Ice Parlour and the ‘molten-centre chicken bun’ at Hong Nin Restaurant. For dinner or a late-night snack, head to old-school restaurants such as *Zhujiang Restaurant* and *Ling Fa Teochew Congee*, which stay open until two or three in the morning. Don’t assume that Michelin-recommended restaurants are necessarily expensive; as the Prince Edward district boasts several Michelin-recommended eateries with affordable prices, such as ‘First Rice Noodle Roll Speciality Shop’, which specialises in the must-try Bra’s Rice Noodle Rolls, and ‘Lan Yuen Cuisine’, a Chinese dessert shop serving home-style Hong Kong dishes. ‘Prince Edward’ is undoubtedly a more down-to-earth version of ‘gourmet paradise’.
(1) *Hai Ji He Tao Fang Desserts*A fresh take on traditional Chinese desserts
Just a three-minute walk from Prince Edward MTR Station, right next to Start Centre, is a shop called ‘Hai Ji Walnut House Desserts’. As the name suggests, the shop is best known for its ‘Sasha Walnut Paste’. The walnut paste is made by grinding and simmering ‘Jianbai’ walnuts—a Yunnan speciality—into a fine powder. Its most distinctive feature is the light brown paste topped with a generous sprinkling of toasted walnut pieces, which enhance both the aroma and the textural depth. Both its appearance and flavour are incredibly appealing; the texture is delicate and smooth, and the sweetness is just right. These small meat pieces are known as ‘sha-sha’. Dessert shops are launching a range of winter-appropriate treats; this ‘Coconut-Infused Stewed Egg White’ features egg white blended with the delicate fragrance of coconut. It is silky smooth and wonderfully nourishing.
Address: 232 Sai Yeung Choi South Street, Prince Edward
How to get there: Take Exit B2 at Prince Edward MTR Station and walk along Sai Yeung Choi South Street for about 3 minutes to reach the destination.
Tel: 2399 7937
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday: 13:00–01:00
(2) *The Pearl River Restaurant*One of the last remaining examples of the authentic, down-to-earth Hong Kong-style stir-fry cuisine of the 1960s
Old-style restaurants are now hard to come by in Hong Kong, and ‘Zhujiang Restaurant’ is very well known in the Prince Edward district. Spanning two floors, the interior has a nostalgic design, and whilst the hygiene standards are somewhat lacking, this is actually one of the hallmarks of an old-style restaurant. As for the food, the stir-fried seafood dishes are excellent. Dishes such as cold-served clams, golden squid with egg yolk, and crispy oysters are all stir-fried with a real wok-heated flavour and are bursting with freshness. It’s the perfect spot for a group of friends to gather, enjoy some small plates and have a few beers.
Address: Ground Floor, 138 Lai Chi Kok Road, Prince Edward
How to get there: Take Exit C2 at MTR Prince Edward Station, walk straight along Prince Edward Road West for about 2 minutes, then turn right onto Lai Chi Kok Road and continue for about 3 minutes to reach your destination.
Tel: 2393-5402
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday: 18:00 – 02:00
(3) ‘Jinhua Ice Parlour’—famous for its signature pineapple bun, a must-try when visiting Hong Kong
‘Kam Wah Ice Room’, a very famous Hong Kong-style café in Prince Edward, is renowned for its signature pineapple bun. The interior features a nostalgic design, reflecting the layout of a traditional ice room. The signature pineapple bun features a flaky crust baked to a golden brown, just like the skin of a pineapple; it is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, making for a deliciously crunchy treat. While the bun is still warm, a thick slice of butter is added, allowing the rich, melted butter to seep into the bread. The intense buttery flavour paired with the crispy, flaky pineapple bun makes for a perfect combination – and a truly indulgent treat.
Whenever the fresh batch comes out of the oven, there’s always a long queue for takeaway; they’re practically snapped up the moment they’re ready—and that’s not even counting the diners eating in. If you’re in Jinhua, this is an absolute must-try!! In addition, the egg tarts, Mexican buns, milk tea, pork chops, chicken wings and Hong Kong-style ‘yuan yang’ coffee are all must-try dishes.
‘Jinhua Ice Parlour’ is situated near Prince Edward Goldfish Street (Garden Street), an area teeming with traditional open-air markets. After a meal, you can spend half an hour strolling around here and picking up some affordable clothes from the outlet shops.
Address: Ground Floor, 47 Taizi Bi Street
Tel: 852 2392 6830
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday: 06:30–12:00
How to get there: Take Exit B2 at MTR Prince Edward Station, walk along Sai Yeung Choi South Street for about 4 minutes, then turn left onto Bip Street to reach your destination.
(4) ‘The First Rice Noodle Roll Specialist Shop’ – a Michelin-recommended eatery serving Bra Rice Noodle Rolls
One of the small eateries recommended by the Michelin Guide specialises in braised rice rolls. The rolls are made to order, with thin, soft and silky wrappers and generous fillings; customers can even request a combination of two different fillings. Congee and rice dishes are merely a side offering at this humble establishment, and the prices are, of course, very reasonable. The shop is renowned for its shredded duck with rice noodles, its ‘Number One’ rice noodle rolls and its pork rib congee, but I actually have a different favourite.
Shredded Roast Duck Rice Rolls – Shredded roast duck, with its rich, savoury aroma, fills the rice rolls to the brim. The delicate fragrance of the rice rolls pairs perfectly with the rich, succulent duck, so just a dash of soy sauce is all you need. Garlic-flavoured Steamed Spare Ribs with Rice – This is my absolute favourite. Unlike the usual version served in Chinese restaurants, it doesn’t use whole black bean chunks for flavour; instead, the task falls to tiny garlic cloves, which make it incredibly savoury. The spare ribs are full of umami, though it’s a shame the rice was a bit too soggy and had turned into a sticky mess. Steamed Daikon Cake – The daikon is cut into thick strips, giving it a distinctive, subtle sweetness. The cake itself has a rich rice aroma and is particularly moist, making it soft and silky; a simple drizzle of soy sauce is all it needs to make it a real treat.
Address: Ground Floor, 384 Portland Street, Prince Edward
How to get there: Take Exit C2 at Prince Edward MTR Station and walk straight along Portland Street to reach the destination.
Tel: 2380 7790
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday: 08:00–11:30
(5) ‘Lan Yuan Zhi Guan’ – a Michelin-recommended Chinese dessert shop that’s out of the ordinary
This time, we’re featuring ‘Lan Yuan Cuisine’, a Chinese restaurant and dessert shop that has been recommended by the Michelin Guide for three consecutive years. It is a very traditional Chinese-style establishment with no flashy façade; with numerous bowls of Chinese medicinal herbs displayed outside the door, it looks just like an unassuming herbal medicine shop. The shop opened in 1984, initially specialising solely in Chinese sweet soups, before later expanding to include noodles, rice dishes and other main courses. Stepping inside, the place has a distinctly old-world charm, with wooden tables and chairs, chopstick holders and toothpick holders, and a menu cover featuring carved woodgrain patterns. The walls are covered with illustrated descriptions of the dishes and press clippings.
‘Lan Yuan Cuisine’ mainly serves Chinese cuisine on weekdays, but on Mondays it offers only turtle jelly and sweet soups, which is a rather unusual way of doing business. The restaurant is particularly well-known for its Chinese sweet soups and pastries, especially the pistachio cake and pistachio paste, which are quite unique and not typically found in ordinary Chinese sweet soup shops.
Lan Yuan Restaurant’s signature speciality is its authentic turtle and lingzhi gelatin, which comes in several price ranges. For example, the most affordable turtle jelly costs just a few dozen Hong Kong dollars and is made from over ten types of medicinal herbs, whereas those costing over a hundred Hong Kong dollars incorporate more than twenty types of rare and precious medicinal herbs. As the herbs have dissolved into the broth, the texture of the turtle jelly is thinner than that of the variety commonly eaten, and it also has a slightly sour taste.
If you’d rather not have turtle, why not try some of the Chinese-style sweet soups, such as sesame paste, almond cream or walnut paste? These are all hand-ground to a very high standard. Among the more distinctive, original desserts are the jade-green pistachio cake and pistachio paste. Some people find the colour a bit too ‘unreal’ and rather off-putting, but rest assured that the flavour is absolutely authentic!
As for savoury dishes, many describe this place as a ‘canteen’; the side dishes are mainly steamed or boiled, with very few fried options, giving diners a homely feel. This is because all the side dishes here are free from added MSG and are steamed to order. The selection of slow-simmered soups, also free from MSG, changes daily; they are rich in colour, generously portioned and not at all greasy. However, if you’re after home-style cooking, do remember not to go on Monday evenings, as on Mondays they only serve sweet soups!
Address: Ground Floor, Jixian Building, 318 Western Vegetable Street, Prince Edward
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday: 12:00–23:00, Sunday: 12:00–22:00
Tel: 852 2381 1369/2397 7788
How to get there: Take Exit A at Prince Edward MTR Station, turn left onto Sports Ground Road, walk straight on for about one minute, turn left onto Sai Yeung Choi Street North, and walk straight on for another minute or so until you see it.
Signature dishes: Sesame cake / Osmanthus cake / Turtle jelly / Pistachio paste / Pistachio cake
(6) ‘Ah Chun Shandong Dumplings’ – recommended by the Michelin Guide, renowned for its watercress and minced pork dumplings
The 2013 Michelin Guide featured this dumpling restaurant in the Prince Edward district. Although it is not a ‘starred’ restaurant, nor is it a Bib Gourmand ‘quality dining for under $300’, I believe that any establishment worthy of a full page in the guide is certainly no pushover.
‘Ah Chun Shandong Dumplings’ – a handmade dumpling shop opened in Hong Kong by a recent immigrant from mainland China. Ah Chun is the owner’s name; originally from Shandong, he trained in the art of dumpling-making for over twenty years in mainland China and now serves authentic Shandong cuisine with a homely flavour in the Prince Edward district. Currently, 2,000 traditional dumplings are freshly handmade every day, and in a bid to preserve the authentic flavours of Shandong cuisine, the shop insists on importing its seasonings directly from Shandong to Hong Kong. It is said that many Shandong natives living in Hong Kong visit this shop in search of the flavours of home.
The star of the menu at ‘Ah Chun Shandong Dumplings’ is, naturally, the round Shandong-style dumplings. Shandong dumplings are quite different from the boiled dumplings you’d find in other noodle shops in Hong Kong, the wrappers are thick, and they’re eaten dry without soup, one at a time. We ordered the ‘Watercress and Fresh Pork Dumplings’, which were prominently featured on the menu; the first bite revealed the aroma of watercress, complemented by a filling of fresh pork – they were juicy and generously filled!! The restaurant is very spacious, and the owner mentioned that it stays open until 11 pm, so it’s well worth a visit for those out on the town at night.
Address: Ground Floor, 60 Lai Chi Kok Road, Prince Edward
Transport: MTR Prince Edward Station, Exit C2; approximately a 3-minute walk
Tel: 852 2789 9611
Opening hours: Monday to Tuesday, Thursday to Sunday: 11:00–23:00; closed on Wednesdays
(7) ‘Fengcheng Restaurant’ – a Michelin-recommended Shunde cuisine restaurant
One of Hong Kong’s long-established restaurants featured in the Michelin Guide is the Shunde-style restaurant ‘Feng Cheng Restaurant’. There are six Feng Cheng branches in total; the ones that are most frequently packed are the one in North Point and this more conveniently located branch in Prince Edward. The Prince Edward branch is just a few minutes’ walk from the MTR station, and the quality of the food is recognised by the Michelin Guide.
Fengcheng Restaurant specialises in traditional, handmade Shunde cuisine. Its signature dishes include deep-fried chicken, crispy raw pork intestines, pan-fried prawns with egg, and Fengcheng lettuce wraps. The desserts are also prepared using traditional methods; these include Daliang Crispy Milk, made to order, and the Lotus Seed Paste and Sago Baked Pudding, available by advance booking only – all of which are firm favourites amongst the older generation.
Deep-fried prawn-stuffed bread: prawn paste and whole prawns are placed on top of the bread, which is then deep-fried in a wok. To be honest, the flavour isn’t exactly mind-blowing, but deep-fried food cooked to perfection is always hard to resist, The fresh prawns are crisp and springy, whilst the bread is light and crispy without being greasy – a skilfully crafted delicacy.
The suckling pig platter: the crackling is crisp and full of flavour. Whilst not exactly haute cuisine, paired with the tender meat glistening with juices, it’s absolutely delicious – far better than the dry, tough sort. Then there’s the orange-coloured pork tripe—it’s wonderfully crisp and has absolutely no unpleasant porky odour. Eating it in generous chunks is a real treat; a must-order for anyone who enjoys offal.
Daliang Stir-fried Fresh Milk is a traditional Shunde dish. The texture of the stir-fried fresh milk is smooth and silky, but unfortunately it is far too oily and feels rather greasy. The milky flavour and the egg white are also rather lacking. What is commendable, however, are the crispy fried pine nuts; even with a generous helping, one still feels there aren’t enough of them.
‘Feng Cheng Restaurant’ specialises in traditional, handmade Shunde cuisine and has two branches in Hong Kong, one in North Point and the other in Prince Edward. Many of its signature dishes are highly recommended by diners, such as deep-fried chicken, crispy raw pork intestines, stir-fried prawns with rice cakes, and prawn toast. The desserts are also prepared using traditional methods; the Dali crispy milk pudding, made to order, and the lotus seed and sago baked pudding, which requires advance booking, are both firm favourites among the older generation.
Address: 171–173 Western Market North Street, Prince Edward
How to get there: Take Exit A at Prince Edward MTR Station, turn left onto Sports Ground Road, walk straight on for about one minute, turn left onto Sai Yeung Choi Street North, and walk straight on for another minute or so until you see it.
Tel: 2789 3321
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday: 11.30–16.00, 18.00–23.00
(8) Don’t miss the ‘Molten-Centre Cocktail Bun’ at Kang Nian Restaurant
There are quite a few Hong Kong-style cafés on Tung Choi Street, and of these, my favourite place for breakfast is Kang Nian Restaurant. Although the breakfast options here are just as varied, the quality of the food is in a league of its own. In particular, Kang Nian Restaurant’s ‘runny-centred chicken bun’ is said to be a hidden gem among Hong Kong’s tea restaurants. The tomato beef noodles and toast are also well worth a try; the rich tomato broth, paired with beef that has absorbed the essence of the broth, offers a rich and satisfying flavour with every bite.
The toast is generously spread with butter; once toasted, the butter melts on the surface and seeps into the bread, leaving it light and crispy – a truly perfect combination. If I could only choose one snack, the freshly baked ‘molten-centre cocktail bun’ would undoubtedly be my sole choice. The aroma of the bread fills the air, and the sugary filling slowly oozes out from the centre. It’s a generous portion – don’t miss out.
Address: Ground Floor, 143–145 Tung Choi Street, Prince Edward
Tel: 2391 8398
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday, 06:30–03:00
Directions: Take Exit B3 at Prince Edward MTR Station, walk towards OK, turn right onto Mong Kok Road, then continue straight ahead. Cross the road at Mong Kok Market, then turn into Tung Choi Street; walk for about one minute and you will see Man Wah Restaurant.
Golden Rules for Gaming
Fresh bread and egg tarts are baked fresh for breakfast and afternoon tea; by the evening, they may no longer be fresh.
(9) ‘Jin Feng Restaurant’ – A 50-year-old steakhouse for the masses
Founded in 1969, ‘Jin Feng Restaurant’ is a down-to-earth steakhouse. From the tables and chairs to the quality of the food, it retains the character of a traditional steakhouse from the 1960s and 1970s. The fillet steak, sirloin steak, black pepper T-bone steak are all Golden Phoenix’s signature dishes. When the sauce is poured over the meat, plumes of smoke infused with the aroma of black pepper rise from the sizzling hotplate, creating a truly flavourful experience.
Address: Ground Floor, Kam Fung Building, 102 Lai Chi Kok Road, Prince Edward
How to get there: Take Exit C2 at Prince Edward MTR Station, walk straight along Prince Edward Road West for about 2 minutes, then turn right onto Lai Chi Kok Road and continue for about 2 minutes to reach your destination.
Tel: 2393 6054
Opening hours: Monday–Sunday: 11.30–23.30
(10) ‘Delicious Eateries’: The stinkier it is, the more appealing it is – that’s ‘stinky tofu’
Among Hong Kong’s street foods, there is one delicacy that tastes all the better the stinkier it is—and the stinkier it is, the more it draws in customers without them complaining. You can find it at an authentic street food stall on Prince Edward’s Water Channel: ‘stinky tofu’. The stinky tofu fried at ‘Delicious Eatery’ is crispy without being greasy; the outer layer is fried to a golden brown, and when served with sweet sauce and mustard, the flavour is elevated – it tastes exactly like the stinky tofu I used to eat as a child. Aside from its famous stinky tofu, fried pig’s intestines are another of ‘Delicious Eatery’s’ renowned specialities. The intestines are thoroughly cleaned, so there’s not the slightest hint of an unpleasant odour when you eat it. As the staff slice open the fried pork intestines, you can hear the satisfying crunch; the outer layer is fried to a fragrant crisp, and when paired with sweet sauce and mustard, the flavour is even more delicious.
Address: Shop 10, Ground Floor, Mei Sing Building, Nos. 30–32A Prince Edward Water Channel
Tel: 2142 7468
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday: 10.30–21.30
(11) ‘Lingfa Chaozhou White Porridge’ – an authentic Chaozhou restaurant serving generous portions
‘Ling Fa Teochew Congee’ has been in business for over sixty years and is one of the long-established establishments in the Prince Edward district, as well as an authentic Teochew restaurant. The restaurant comprises two ground-floor premises, as well as an upstairs area, allowing it to accommodate a large number of diners. Despite its size, the restaurant is always packed in the evenings. The menu offers a limited selection, focusing mainly on signature Chaozhou dishes such as chilled blackfish, chives with pig’s blood, congee with oysters and minced pork, and a assorted braised meat platter. Every dish is made with fresh ingredients and served in generous portions; it is one of the best Teochew restaurants I have ever eaten at, so it is no wonder it attracts so many diners every evening.
Address: Ground Floor, 625–627 Reclaimed Land Street, Prince Edward
Tel: 6440 7169
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday: 17:30–03:00
(12) ‘Yonghe Long Restaurant’ – a long-established restaurant specialising in traditional charcoal-fired roast meats
‘Wing Hop Lung Restaurant’ specialises in roast meats and is a long-established eatery in the Prince Edward district, frequented by countless celebrities and regulars, which is a testament to its immense popularity. Yong He Long Restaurant’s roast meats are prepared using traditional charcoal-fired methods, resulting in a particularly fragrant and crispy finish with tender, succulent meat. According to the chef, the most crucial step in achieving this crispy texture is the ‘needle-pricking’ process, which involves pricking holes in the pig’s skin with a needle, then using a high flame to force the fat and moisture from the meat out through the holes. This allows the fat to glaze the skin, resulting in a crispy exterior and tender meat, with a subtle smoky flavour. Although their roast meats are on the pricier side, the use of fresh ingredients and meticulous preparation ensure they still attract a loyal following.”
Address: 392 Portland Street, Prince Edward
Tel: 2380 8511
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday: 11:00–22:00
Once you’ve enjoyed the delicious food, there are a few other attractions in Taizi worth visiting, such as the nearbyGoldfish StreetHaving a browse is also a good option.
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