米其林推薦「麵鮮醬油房周月 Shugetsu」夏日醒胃新品 - 安格斯牛肉冷湯拉麵



It’s been a long time since I last wrote about Japanese ramen. The ramen craze in Hong Kong seems to have become something of a routine now; you no longer hear of people queuing for two hours just to eat a bowl. Is it that the ramen isn’t appealing? Probably not; it’s just that Hong Kongers’ fleeting enthusiasm has run its course! I often find myself in the vicinity of the famous Japanese noodle shop ‘Men-Sen Shoyu-bo Shugetsu’, but it’s been three or four months since I last popped in. I’ve previously tried every dish on the menu—from ramen to tsukemen—but the one thing I’ve always loved at Shugetsu is…
A type of dipping noodle. I’ve got my own reasons for loving dipping noodles: Zhou Yue serves the best bowl of dipping noodles in the whole of Hong Kong—fragrant, smooth, springy and full of the rich aroma of noodles—something no other noodle shop can match. So whenever I pop in these days, it’s simply for a bowl of soy sauce dipping noodles, with three extra slices of crispy, fatty char siu on the side.

Today I tried a delicious new ramen dish called ‘Angus Beef Cold Broth Ramen’, featuring thin slices of marbled Angus beef simmered in the restaurant’s signature soy sauce. The cold broth is made with Japanese bonito flakes and soy sauce, offering the subtle sweetness of the bonito alongside a faint soy sauce aroma—it really whets the appetite, and the flavour is perfect for the sweltering summer heat. The noodles are just like my favourite tsukemen—made from a blend of Hatsuhisa and Kinran flours— whilst regular tsukemen typically uses thick No. 22 noodles, the cold soup version is made with slightly thinner No. 16 noodles, approximately 0.9mm in diameter. Although they are somewhat thinner, they still retain their signature smoothness, springiness and rich wheat aroma. In summer, when one’s appetite isn’t at its best and one doesn’t need a lot of calories, these delicate, springy noodles are just the thing. Moreover, unlike tsukemen, this ‘Angus Beef Cold Ramen’ doesn’t offer different portion sizes such as 100g, 200g or 300g options; it comes in a single 150g portion. There’s no option to have more if you’re still hungry, but I found this portion size just right. When it’s served, the chef sprinkles the cold broth with onion, spring onion and tempura bits. The onions are sweet, the spring onions are fresh, and the tempura bits are crispy; these three small garnishes greatly enrich the overall complexity of the dish, really adding the finishing touch. My biggest disappointment, however, was the soft-boiled egg – whilst not quite of the lowest standard, it was certainly of a rather poor quality, and the standard is very inconsistent.

These ‘Angus Beef Cold Ramen’ noodles are delightfully springy, the cold broth is refreshingly sweet and cool, and the beef is rich and flavourful – I’m sure this will be my new favourite this summer. The cold ramen is available in limited quantities each day; as I write this, I went to Yi Chang at 8 o’clock sharp this evening but couldn’t get a table, so if you’re interested, you’ll need to go a bit earlier.

Thin slices of Angus beef, braised in our signature soy sauce
The noodles are just like my favourite tsukemen; they’re made from a blend of Hatsuhisa and Kinran flours.
The sweet flavour of the onion, the freshness of the spring onion and the crispiness of the tempura pieces—these three small accompaniments greatly enrich the overall flavour profile.
Soft-boiled eggs: whilst not quite up to ‘ninth-rate’ standard, they are still of ‘sixth or seventh-rate’ quality; the standard is rather inconsistent.
Snack: ‘Thin slices of Angus beef’ – four slices per plate, $18; quite cheap, really

Shugetsu, the Fresh Noodle Soy Sauce Workshop

Average spend per person: $80–$130Address: 5 Gough Street, Central
Monday to Friday: 11.30–20.30,
Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays: 12:00–18:00

Tel: 2850 6009

Address. Ground Floor, 30 Hoi Kwong Street, Quarry Bay
Monday to Friday: 11.45–20.45
Saturday: 11.45–18.00
Closed on Sundays and public holidays

Tel: 2854 9985

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