{"id":1038082,"date":"2020-01-22T15:45:09","date_gmt":"2020-01-22T07:45:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/culinarycapital.hk\/?p=121026"},"modified":"2020-01-22T15:45:09","modified_gmt":"2020-01-22T07:45:09","slug":"michelin-guide-sushi-tokami","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jonathansin.com\/en\/michelin-guide-sushi-tokami\/","title":{"rendered":"[Hong Kong Cuisine] Celebrating a birthday at the one-Michelin-starred Sushi Tokami"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

For my birthday in 2019, as well as heading to Taipei to hunt for Michelin stars, I actually visited \u2018Sushi Tokami\u2019\u2014which has held a \u2018Hong Kong Michelin one-star\u2019 rating since 2017\u2014for a birthday meal before setting off. Anyone who has watched Kimura-san\u2019s recent TV dramas will know that securing a \u2018Tokyo Michelin\u2019 star is by no means an easy feat. The flagship branch of \u2018Sushi Tokami\u2019 in Ginza began receiving the \u2018Tokyo Michelin\u2019 one-star accolade for four consecutive years, starting the year after it opened in 2013. The Harbour City branch in Tsim Sha Tsui is the first and only overseas branch, so I was naturally very much looking forward to it.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

This place is always very busy, so we\u2019d booked a table well in advance. \u2018Sushi Tokami\u2019 specialises in traditional Edomae-style sushi, with the chef devising the menu based on the day\u2019s seasonal ingredients. The dinner Omakase (chef\u2019s selection) features 12 pieces of sushi, a special tamago (omelette), starters, appetisers, sashimi, small bites, steamed or grilled dishes, a soup, and dessert (HK$2,200+). A glance at the menu reveals ingredients sourced from as far north as Hokkaido and as far south as Kyushu.<\/p>\n

\n

\u2018Starters\u2019<\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n
\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nTo start, let\u2019s have a tuna hand roll. The first owner of \u2018Sushi Tokami\u2019 was the founder of \u2018Yama-Kou\u2019, a long-established tuna specialist at Tsukiji Market in Japan; consequently, Tsukiji\u2019s most famous bluefin tuna is also the restaurant\u2019s signature dish. This is no ordinary hand roll: the crisp nori and sushi rice envelop the \u2018tsukisaki\u2019 cut of tuna\u2014a rare cut from near the head. As this muscle is constantly in motion, the flesh is particularly springy and the flavour exceptionally rich.<\/p>\n

\n

\u2018Starters, Sashimi, Snacks, Grilled Dishes\u2019<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n
\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nThe starter is \u2018Hokkaido Snow Crab\u2019. It is first boiled in brine in Japan, then shelled in Hong Kong and served with crab vinegar. With its generous amount of crab roe and a fresh, slightly tangy flavour, it makes an excellent appetiser.<\/p>\n

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The sashimi consisted of \u2018Yamaguchi Prefecture Red Sea Bream Sashimi\u2019 and \u2018Hokkaido Smoked Yellowtail\u2019. The most important thing about sashimi is its fresh, sweet flavour; the sashimi we had that day was decent but unremarkable, falling short of being truly impressive. The yellowtail, however, had a slight smoky, savoury flavour.<\/p>\n

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The appetisers and grilled dishes were \u2018Poached oysters, conch sashimi and seared garfish\u2019 and \u2018Hyogo-style West Kyoto-style grilled horse mackerel\u2019 respectively; the combinations of ingredients and flavours were a little on the unremarkable side.<\/p>\n

\n

\u2018Sushi and Speciality Tamagoyaki\u2019<\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n
\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nA selection of 12 pieces of sushi, including flounder, prawns, baby cuttlefish, clams, skinless fish, sea urchin, red salmon, conger eel, lean tuna, medium-fatty tuna, fatty tuna and chum salmon.<\/p>\n

I\u2019d like to say a few words about \u2018kobiki\u2019 in particular. As it requires rather fiddly preparation, it isn\u2019t very common, yet it is an indispensable component of authentic Edomae-style sushi. The proportions of vinegar and salt used to marinate the small horse mackerel are adjusted according to the thickness and size of each piece; the slightest miscalculation can result in a fishy taste. The Kogai from Nagasaki served at \u2018Sushi Tokami\u2019 is springy, crisp and perfectly seasoned.<\/p>\n

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I\u2019ve heard that their sushi rice is made using Niigata Tanada rice, combined with red vinegar fermented from natural sake lees, and then cooked in a traditional earthenware pot. Niigata Tanada rice is supposed to be distinct and beautifully chewy, but I felt that the sushi rice on the day seemed a little too moist, though not quite to the point of falling apart. As for the ingredients and freshness, the toro was quite fresh and tasty, whilst the rest was, as mentioned previously, nothing to write home about.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The special omelette has a slightly sweet flavour, a rich eggy taste, and a texture somewhat reminiscent of cake.<\/p>\n

\n

\u2018Bowls and Desserts\u2019<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n
\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nThe \u2018Tuna Collagen Soup\u2019 echoes the first starter; it is slow-cooked using the tendons from the \u2018tuxian\u2019 cut, resulting in a soup that is delicately sweet yet rich in collagen.<\/p>\n

The dessert consisted of rich matcha ice cream with a strong tea and milk flavour, served with sweet Japanese persimmons and strawberries. The simple yet elegant presentation was particularly noteworthy, and it even featured my name and a \u2018Happy Birthday\u2019 message.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Judging by our dining experience that day, it seemed that \u2018Sushi Tokami\u2019 wasn\u2019t quite at its best; given its Michelin-starred reputation and the price tag, our expectations were naturally quite high. I look forward to visiting the flagship restaurant in Tokyo next time to sample the food there.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Address: Ocean Centre, L2, 216A. Telephone: 2771 3938 <\/span>
\nOpening hours: (Lunch) 12:00\u201315:00 (Dinner) 18:00\u201322:30 Monday to Sunday<\/span>
\nWebpage. www.tokami.com.hk<\/a><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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